What makes up a good solar system install?

Given the amount of money you are about to spend on your solar system and the lifetime expectancy you want in return, there are a couple of factors you should take into consideration before purchasing your solar system.

If you want your solar system to last and perform its best, any electrical wiring installation should be done by a licensed electrician (as it is required by law). A CEC (Clean Energy Council) accredited installer should also be supervising the install. Ideally the electrician and the CEC accredited installer will be the same person and should have identification to prove such licenses and accreditation.
Below are some examples of good and bad installations:
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​1. The quality of solar panels and inverter will mean little if they are installed incorrectly and not to manufacturer’s specifications. Warranties may be void if the manufacturer’s installation guidelines aren’t followed, leaving you to foot the bill if the solar company is no longer around. For example:

• Panels need to be mounted so they are not touching each other. All manufacturers recommend a distance of at least 10mm. If they are touching, then there is a possibility of cracking the panel due to thermal expansion as they heat up during the day.

• Panels also need to be clamped to the rail generally no more than 400-450mm from the ends of the panel. This is defined by the panel manufacturer and is to ensure the panel maintains its wind loading integrity as too much overhang from the end of the panel can cause too much flex and possible failure. So if you have a tin roof with purlins spaced too far apart, it is necessary to add extra timber inside the roof to ensure adequate fixing points. This isn’t done by some installers as it requires too much extra effort. Tiled roofs don’t normally have this problem because the brackets are fixed differently unless they need to be mounted close to the ridge capping like the picture above left.

• Inverters installed on north, north-west & north-east walls without proper shading from the sun can overheat, adding extra stress to the electrical components inside and cause premature failure of your inverter.

2. Another often overlooked but very important part of the installation is the water ingress protection of your roof. If you don’t want any leaks, then it is very important your installer uses best practice and appropriate materials for cable entries and fixing the brackets to your roof.

• For tiled roofs, it is best practice to grind the lip away on the tile sitting above the new solar bracket and also the back of the tile, so the bracket can sit flush without putting pressure on the tile below causing it to crack. (this takes more time and is not done by some installers). Grinding the tile ensures the tile can sit flush with neighbouring tiles to maintain their water protection.

• Cable entries through a tile should have a lead or aluminium flashing style dektite that covers the whole tile, not just silicone. Tin roofs should have a standard dektite.

3. Cable support is another factor that gets overlooked, and some shortcuts can be taken. The cable should be supported at regular intervals, so there is no added stress due to sagging. The method of supporting the cable should be done in a way so that it will last as long as the system, e.g. 20 years. Cables dangling in the breeze and sitting on the roof will ware through their insulation over time.

• Appropriate methods are the use of stainless steel cable ties as PVC deteriorate very quickly, conduit, cable clips or UV stabilised trunking.
• Due to the nature of solar power and its DC power, any problems with the cabling can lead to a higher fire risk. Think of a welding machine constantly going where there is a constant arc at very high temperatures.

If you have any more questions or would like to see the Clean Energy Council’s (CEC) Installer guidelines in full, we will happily provide them on request. Get in touch today to book an obligation free quote - email us at info@perthsolarandbattery.com.au!